I’ll start with the Sandy’s shorebreak because I was TERRIFIED. I mean, I know Sandy’s… the shorebreak is deadly. In college I used to surf there regularly but I always paddled out to a spot called “Full Point” and surfed with uncles. I’ve always considered the shorebreak off limits. I’ll swim out past it and back in… but even then, I’m very careful and not super thrilled about it. Here I am “pretending” it’s awesome…. lol!
Fast-forward to our Travel Channel shoot. Our host insisted on having “Surfing the Sandy’s Shorebreak” on “The Top 10 List” (he actually titled it “Getting Pounded”) – I tried to convince him to change the plan – “Let’s surf with Kama the surfing pig! How about longboarding out at the point?” No luck. I didn’t want him to go with another host so I pretended to go along with it. Shhhhh… don’t tell. So we get to Sandy’s and someone was supposed to bring me fins. There were no fins that fit me. <Awesome!> I say, “Well, the lifeguards won’t let me out with fins. So you just go and I’ll watch from shore.” Instead, Shane (the host) gave me his adjustable fins and borrowed fins that fit him. <Ahhhhh…. now there’s no way out!>
I’m comfortable in the water so I agreed to swim out past the shorebreak and pretend to bodysurf. It was INTENSE. Much bigger than I’ve ever been out in before. I timed the sets and ran as fast as my legs could take me into the water – I dove in with my fins pointed up overhead and in front of me and kicked so hard I was out of breathe by the time I got past the shorebreak. My heart was pounding in my throat. I put the fins on and proceeded to try to stay in place… and by that I mean I had to swim constantly against the current to stay generally in the same area. We got a couple shots of me swimming toward and away from the camera and I immediately started timing the waves to make my way back in. It was terrifying. I was so scared. I didn’t let it show… but I was quivering inside. Somehow, I survived!
My experience on the north shore of Oahu was the polar opposite! Shane is a surfer, so he wants to surf every chance he gets! We’re on the north shore and have a couple hours of “free time” so he decides we should get “more footage” of us surfing. Honestly, I’m a planner… and this was not part of the plan… so I wasn’t super excited about it. In fact, I didn’t have the right swimsuit (a strapless!) and going surfing meant I would have to dry my hair and re-do my make-up… ugh. I didn’t let it show and went along with it…
I say it was the polar opposite because once I got out there… my entire perspective changed. Being out in the warm, inviting water on the north shore – bobbing up and down surrounded by guys (I was the only girl out) – party wave surfing with two guy friends that are just stoked to be out there – the sun was shining – the water was blue – and this was a part of my “JOB” that day… it was PERFECT. We were only out for 30 minutes and I caught 8 waves! I mean, really? Was I really allowing myself to complain about surfing?? Never again.
Surfing with Shane-O and Mike reminded me of simpler days… in college, my friend lived in a house at Off The Wall. My friends and I would drive over from town to spend the night and surf all weekend. It reminded me of the days when I didn’t have to worry about anyone but myself. When my focus in life… was to enjoy it. Those were the days of surf, sun, serenades and school. I felt this pure feeling of contentment, joy and freedom. It was wonderful to have some “me” time! I want to encourage other mamas out there to do the same! It was rejuvenating and the perfect way to “reset”… did I mention this was my JOB? Ahhh… I’m so lucky!
When we returned to town late that afternoon and wrapped production, the boys wanted to surf again – surprise, surprise! he he… our three-day adventure ended with a sunset surf session at Ala Moana. I couldn’t have asked for better. Life’s Swell…
The Top 10 List Blogs: Tandem Surfing, Sandy’s Shorebreak & Surfing the North Shore, Seeing Oahu From The Air, Dirt Biking, Swimming With Sharks, Live Like Eddie, Making Ti Leaf Lei, Supsquatch & Outrigger Canoe, Hiking Kapena Falls, Eating Local – Kahuku Superette